Contents
Foreword
Introduction

Chapter One - Cabin Planning

Chapter Two - Types of Cabin Construction
     Pole Built Cabins
     Stick Built Cabins
     Post and Beam Cabins
     Stone Cabins
     Cordwood Cabins
     Wood Siding

Chapter Three - Cabin Construction
     Hand Cart
     Site Preparation
     Foundations
     Windows and Doors
     Ladders and Stairs
     Insulation and Roofing
     Electricity
     Water
     Plumbing & Sanitary Systems
     Heating

Chapter Four - Log Cabins
     Log Joints
     Cutting Your Own Logs
     Working with Logs
     Two-Bedroom Log Cabin

Chapter Five - Cabin Designs
     Helen's Writing Cabin
     Pyramid Cabin
     A-Frame Cabin
     Pole Built Cabin
     Timber-Framed Guest Cabin
     Lakeside Cabin
     Japanese Moongazing Cabin
     Mediterranean Cabin

Chapter Six - Outfitting a Cabin
     Classic Cabin Accessories
     Protecting Your Cabin

Bibliography
Sources
Index
Notes

Excerpt from page 120

Chinking
If you are building a log cabin you will need to provide some caulking or chinking between the logs to make them air tight and to keep out bugs and mosquitoes. How much caulking or chinking you will need depends on the amount of space there is between the logs. For instance the Swedish cope and some of the milled log types of log construction will require only a couple of thin beads of caulking applied with a caulking gun. On the other hand some hand-hewn log cabins may have 4" spaces between the logs then requiring major chinking. Early log cabin builders used moss stuffed in-between the logs. This help up pretty well since it was flexible and compressed as the logs settled. A modern-day alternative is a 6" wide Fiberglas sill sealer sold commercially at most building supply yards and used extensively to build houses. This is a good choice if you are using unseasoned logs as they will undoubtedly settle and shrink over the first two to three years at which time you can apply a permanent type of chinking.